Posterous theme by Cory Watilo
Haley A

Filed under: study abroad

I Know Why They Call It "the Marvilous City"

I learned a lot from my trip to Rio de Janeiro.  For example, there’s a pretty good chance that you won’t survive the trip if you take the overnight bus, and that I like Copacabana Beach better than Ipanema.  But first things first:  our bus driver epitomized “crazy Brazilian driving,” and we’re pretty sure that one of the tires blew out in the middle of nowhere at about 3 am. But, at 7 am, we finally arrived at the Rodoviária Novo Rio- a little late, but still in one piece. 

I don’t think I was quite awake yet, but, when our drive to our hostel in Copacabana took us past the Sambadrome, I became aware of the fact that I was finally in Rio de Janeiro.  The former imperial capital, Rio has become a cultural icon.  Countless movies have taken place there, the city’s beaches are beyond famous, and everyone knows the song “The Girl from Ipanema” (I’m pretty sure I hear it every time I go to a Japanese restaurant, for whatever reason). 

It's hard to say when it happened, but at some point in time, I became a Brazilian history nerd.  It’s safe to say that I’m obsessed.  It’s really been good for me though, as my desire to read books in Portuguese in order to gain insight into the Brazilian viewpoint on their own history has resulted in a significant improvement in my writing and vocabulary.  This has also resulted in my (possibly over-) enthusiasm for travel.  I wish I could do more.  Every time that I go somewhere new, especially if I’ve already learned a decent amount about the history of that place and its implications in Brazil’s history trajectory, I feel like I am rediscovering the past of the country I have been calling home for more than four months now. 

Cristo

I could definitely live in Rio.  I might like to transplant my family there, but I’m pretty sure they’d like it to.  I had an amazing time during the three days that I spent there, but I feel that my greatest take-away was the desire to go back.  I did touristy things on my first day:  Christ the Redeemer on Corcovado, Sugar Loaf, the Lapa steps, etc.  After that, the majority of my next two days were spent on the beach.  Since I’ve been in Brazil, I’ve been more interested in getting the local vibe of a place than I have been in running around and hitting all of the tourist spots.  I had the opportunity to do just that while hanging out on the beach, listening to conversations (eavesdropping) and people watching; but also when I went to a very locals-only party (in a house/club on the beach that you would never find if you didn’t know where it was, as in was down a hill from Avenida Atlantica- cabs had trouble locating it, as it was hidden around a curve.  It also had some questionable construction going on... definitely not up to code), and when we went to Lapa at night.  I really, really still want to go to the Imperial Palace, Leblon, the National Library, and the bar where “The Girl from Ipanema” was written, but I know that, even if I had made it to all of these spots, I would still want to go back to Rio de Janeiro.  I’ve heard it has that effect on people.  In fact, I believe that there’s a sizeable population of people who visited Rio, quit their jobs at home, and moved there.  I guess we’ll see what the future has in store for me...

Palace
(oh yeah- next time I'm staying at the Copacabana Palace)

Saudades for the NOLA

Ok so… I’m really missing Tulane and New Orleans right now (and also my friends and family in PA).  Let me share with you a few of the reasons why this is:

  1. Leonardo DiCaprio is apparently running around NOLA.  He was spotted at the Boot last night, and, immediately, Facebook and Twitter burst into Leo chaos. 

1.5 Marky Mark was there at the beginning of the semester.  Of course they’re both there while I’m in South America.  All I got last year was Miley Cyrus.

  1. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1394857195/a-giant-ball-pit-in-an-abandoned-house-naturally?ref=live

Someone has raised funds and is going to build a ball pit in an abandoned house in the Marigny.  But it’s really more than that- you have to read the page.  I <3 New Orleans.

  1.  

    Three

I can’t remember where this quote came from, but I remember seeing “There’s nothing more liberal than Communist doors” somewhere during my freshman year.  I do not comprehend how doors (not even automatic doors) can constantly be out of order, but they always are.  I think our tuition is $50,000/year because they’re always replacing these babies.  But it still makes me miss Tulane. 

4.      http://lineup.nojazzfest.com/?sort=weekend1

I’m convinced that this year’s Jazz Fest (which is already halfway over) is/was the best one ever. 

5.      I could really go for some beignets, boiled crawfish, waffle cheese fries, a French 75, everything at Camelia’s, a bellini from Domenica, BBQ gulf shrimp, gelato at Sucre, a blueberry muffin from Boulangerie, Lebanon’s chicken shawarma, an oyster poboy, the pecan praline parfait at Commanders, and maybe a daq (for good measure) right now.  Maybe not in that order though.  (I know it seems like I eat a lot… I even held back a little, too.)

 These are also some of the reasons why I do not regret my choice to attend Tulane at all.  Over the last three years, tons of people have asked me why I chose to go to school halfway across the country, what it’s like in New Orleans.  I’ve gotten the question from prospective freshmen and parents, and now from friends who are considering Tulane Law.  I can never come up with a thorough response on the spot; I end up mumbling about the people and the city and how it’s not all about Bourbon Street, but that that’s fun too… Basically, I think you have to go to New Orleans- and not just to the French Quarter.  It can’t be labeled or even described in a few sentences.

 OH, and a little something about Brazil:  here, pineapples are white, and you can eat the core.  Do you think the customs people would really notice if I brought back a suitcase of fruit? 

 

I promise I'm really not THAT tall

If this exercise in blog-writing has taught me anything, it’s that I’m not good at blog-writing.  I think about what I’m going to write a lot, it’s just that I never actually write (type) it.  Eventually, I forget what I was planning to write, so it’s like I have to start all over again.  But there is one thing that I’ve been wanting to write about which I am forced to remember, since I’m always being reminded of it: 

Brazilians (except for the occasional odd balls) are not tall.  I’m assuming it was for this reason that things here were built for smaller people.  Clothes, the metro, airplanes, staircases, etc are just not really made for anyone over 5’8”. 

I kind of arbitrarily chose that height because I’m somewhere between 5’9” and 5’10” (yeah, I still don’t know the metric system, so I can’t tell you my height in centimeters, sorry).  I’m not sure whether or not there’s any data on the average height of Brazilians, but I know there are a lot of people who are the same height that I was in, say, fourth grade.  I’ve always been “tall,” but, at home, I don’t feel like a giant.  When I flew to Bahia, my legs didn’t fit in the space between my seat and the one in front of it.  Sure, we flew on an airline which may or may not be real (Webjet), but I noticed very few other people with my problem.  When I end up in one of the seats on the metro that has a seat right in front of it, my knees hit that seat- which has made for some awkward encounters with people in said seat.  It’s not normal for me to have to duck while walking down the stairs (because of a low clearance), but I have to do that fairly often here. 

While many people mistake me for Brazilian (I think it’s because I walk so quickly that I give the illusion that I always know where I’m going, despite the fact that I get lost roughly once per day) and ask for directions, I have the suspicion that others can tell I don’t belong because of my height. 

Now, I have some serious questions for the Brazilians over six feet (about 183 cm):  how do you survive here, where do you buy clothing, and do you feel excluded from your own people?? 

Tall

3 Meses

     As of yesterday, I have now been in Brazil for three months.  I didn’t even realize until someone else mentioned it.  We had our mid-point meeting with our study abroad group, during which we discussed stereotypes, variations in study abroad experiences, and a very interesting “Cultural Adjustment Curve.”  The curve highlights the phases of “honeymoon,” “crisis,” “recovery,” and “adjustment;” all of which occur when you move to a new country and when you move home again.  The illustrated curve showed each event happening only once, while several of us remarked that, sometimes, we feel as if we go through each stage over the course of a single day.  I don’t know how many times I’ve entered into the “crisis” stage, or if I ever really did.  I can’t say I’ve had any crying fits of homesickness.  If anything, I’d say that I skipped the “honeymoon” phase and went directly to crisis. 

I was completely overwhelmed when I got here.  I think I was ok in the airport (although, as I recently told my parents, I’m not sure I’ll be able to leave, as no one took my customs form and the immigration agent merely glanced at my passport when I arrived) and on the bus to the hotel (with all of the American students).  The downhill slope must have started when I couldn’t figure out how to turn on the electricity in the room (now know that you have to leave your key in the slot by the door).  Then we embarked onto Avenida Paulista to find lunch.  Avenida Paulista could be equated to Madison Avenue in Manhattan, but here, everyone was speaking Portuguese.  I remember trying to fall asleep the first few nights I was in São Paulo while a soundtrack of Portuguese phrases and conjugations played in my head (it was kind of like… I’m imagining some scene from a movie where words are flying through the air and people are ducking… really, we might as well just call them lasers and compare this scene to Star Wars).  I was constantly asking myself who let me come here and if they did it as some sort of trick.

While I’m still not really sure who allowed me into this country (or if they don’t really know that I’m here) and if they thought I’d actually survive or not, I've lasted three months.  There was never a time where I thought to myself, “Wow, this is easy.”  Yes, I know how to get to PUC, and I pretty much understand the metro (there was one time where I got a little overconfident and got off at the wrong stop… I had been listening to music and not to the station announcement), but I still get lost just about every time I try to go somewhere new- even if it’s just for a couple of seconds.  I’m still not a pro at Portuguese; I sometimes use French words (which I haven’t used in 3 years), I sometimes second-guess myself when listening or speaking, BUT I’m a pro at ordering pão de queijo (which may actually be a bad thing).  I consider myself a real student, having taken three exams and written one paper since the start of the fall semester (remember, I’m in South America).  Honestly, my Portuguese is approximately 1000 times better than it was three months ago.  If I could communicate with people through writing all of the time, there would be no problems.  Alas, I am working on the speaking part. 

And then there are all of the little but amazing experiences I’ve had.  You know, those things that you’re only able to put into perspective later.  I went to Bahia for Carnaval, but I also got to experience it as if I were a Brazilian (because I was with Brazilians and only two or three Americans most of the time).  I went to the “real” Fountain of Youth on an island in the Bahia de Todos os Santos (yes, they will tell you that Ponce de Leon got it completely wrong).  Plus, it was just steps away from property where Caetano Veloso, Gilberto Gil, and, apparently, anybody who’s anybody own condos.  I’m not sure if this is because of its proximity to the Fountain of Youth (which has three spouts- for love, health, and I think the last was beauty) or not.  I was reminded of the warning we received about not adjusting the temperature setting of the shower after you’ve started the water when a large bolt of electricity shot out of the showerhead (I was not shocked, but I was startled).  I’ve eaten manioc (flour, whole root), chicken hearts, feijoada, carne seca, so many fruits that I don’t know the names of, carrot cake with chocolate icing (yeah, I like carrot cake now), pão de mel, tapioca that is nothing like the “fish eggs” we were showed as children, catupirty (regrettably), and I’m sure lots of other “Brazilian” things that I can’t think of right now.  I also bought my first Brazilian-authored book in Portuguese (which wasn’t required for a class).  It’s the basis of one of the top-grossing movies of the last year in Brazil. 

      Last but not least, I’m leaving for Rio de Janeiro in a few short hours.  Actually, I should probably finish packing and head out- like, now.  Hopefully, I will have lots of fun, new experiences to write about shortly (and maybe I’ll be more prompt about my next post… I guess we’ll see). 

Para Mim?

After I returned from my ten days (that went way too quickly) in easy-going Salvador, it was back to real life.  Or, rather, the “real” start of classes at PUC.  It’s kind of like a soft opening and Grand Opening- classes do begin during the first week of February, but they don’t really count.  A lot of students don’t even go.  But after Carnaval, professors begin to keep track of attendance, and students get a little bit more serious (so what if a great number can still be found drinking beer at the bars across from campus at 10 am or smoking pot near the Xeroxes? At least they’re going to class… or hanging out near their classrooms).  

Higher education seems to be much less formal in Brazil.  I’ve hear the stories about Tulane professors holding classes in bars, but my professors have never done this.  Here, students call professors by their first names, they come to class late and/or leave class early, and they come and go from class about a million times during the period, even though we have a 20-30 minute break in the middle (this is a little irritating).  So, classes are still pretty relaxed.  We have our midterms during the first week of April; I’ll report back after that.

Basically, the end of February/beginning of March went exactly like:  back to São Paulo, first week of classes, off to Paraty.  I really had nothing to complain about.  

CIEE took us to Paraty (word play:  Parati, Para-mim, Para-todos).  I’m really glad that we went, as I would never have considered going there, and I ended up loving it (I also loved that it was part of our program cost, so it felt like I wasn’t spending money).  The Historic Center is amazing- no cars, cobblestone streets, and Masonic symbolism (Robert Langdon goes to Paraty?).  I think I could live there someday.  I could definitely become a street performer (we saw Charlie Chaplin, among others).  In addition, the town was built to accommodate the fact that some of the streets flood when there’s a full moon.  I know that Eagles Mere, PA has a claim on “the town that time forgot,” but Paraty outdoes EM for sure.  

We left for Paraty on Friday morning, stopped at Ubatuba (a gorgeous beach on the northern coast of SP state), and arrived at our “inn” late on Friday afternoon.  Of course it was raining by that time, so we took a beautiful tour of Paraty in the rain.  If I had to sum up my study abroad trip so far in three words, those words would be “IN THE RAIN.”  Anyway, after the tour, it stopped raining, and we all went out for the evening.  I went to a restaurant with some friends, shared a bottle of wine, befriended the entire wait-staff, got a free caipirinha, and sang “Ai se eu te pego.”  At some point the electricity went out.  We would learn that this is a regular occurrence in Paraty.  It was ok, though, because our new waiter friends fanned us with menus.

On Saturday, CIEE made us get up early to go on a boat tour.  Getting up early isn’t fun, but it was definitely worth it.  The fact that our pousada had the best pão de quejo ever also helped.  Our boat tour took up most of the day- we went to several different spots where we anchored and were allowed to swim.  Then, that evening, we went out again in the historic center to celebrate two friends’ birthdays.  We had dinner at a Thai restaurant, in the dark, because the power went out again.  I continue to consume everything passion fruit flavored that is made available to me (cake, caipirinhas, mousse-type things).  I don’t know what I’m going to do when I go home to the country of the United States of We Don’t Have Passion Fruit Here-merica.

The fun continued on Sunday (at least for most of the day), as we “hiked” –in Havaianas- to several waterfalls in the Mata Atlantica (what remains of the once huge Atlantic Forest), jumped off of rocks and swam beneath the falls, and visited a cachaça distillery. 

002
For part of the trip, we were on the “Gold Trail” that the Portuguese used to transport excavated gold when Brazil was still a colonial installation.  As you can see, this trip was not all fun and games- especially not the part where it took us a million years to get home.  Word of advice:  if you ever travel by vehicle in Brazil, don’t plan to make any interstate trips on Sunday night.  This experience really made me appreciate the U.S. highway system. 

 

 

Carnaval da Bahia (Nossa! Nossa! Tchê, tchê, tchê, tchê)

The 2-months-in-Brazil benchmark recently passed, and I realized that I’m falling behind on my blog posts.  REALLY falling behind.  Since I last wrote, I’ve been to Salvador, in the state of Bahia, and Paraty, in Rio de Janeiro.  I’m on my fifth week of classes, and I have midterms coming up (sneaking up).  I would hate to bore anyone by recounting what has gone on during all of this time, so I’m going to  do it in separate posts- in case that helps. 

First of all, I went to Bahia for CARNAVAL... and stayed for ten days.  It was an amazing little get-away from São Paulo- beaches, relaxation, almost having a heart attack every time I got in the car (Salvadorians seem to be even scarier drivers), oh- and the biggest party in the world (not sure how this is measured).  I really enjoyed Salvador and Carnaval, but, honestly, I think I like Mardi Gras better.  I’m sure it has something to do with the fact that I know New Orleans much better than Salvador, that almost everyone speaks English in Louisiana, and that there are fewer random men trying to kiss every and any girl in site during Mardi Gras (in fact, I would say that there are only a handful, and there’s a good chance they’re wasted and on Bourbon Street).  It also annoyed me that we were constantly called out as Gringoes.  Eventually, we started telling people we were from São Paulo and speaking Portuguese, which they believed (since the population of SP is so diverse).  I didn’t really enjoy seeing children selling beer (even if it was 4 latinhas- smallish cans- for R$5) either.  Aside from the traditional Carnaval activities, I was able to go on a (discounted) boat tour in the Bahia de Todos os S antos, make friends, eat amazing crepes, sample Bahian cuisines, hear Brian Adams on the radio, see famous Brazilian singers live (and Bob Sinclar?), visit Pelourinho and other historic sites in Salvador, buy a Brazilian swimsuit, AND be proposed to by a guy wearing a skirt (didn’t have a ring, also suggested that we have five children).  Carnaval itself was definitely overwhelming.  I’m glad I had the opportunity to go and so lucky that I had a Salvadorian to show me the ropes (and provide me with food and shelter for ten days). 

 

003
Looking back toward Salvador from the Bay

A Pre-Dated Post (12.02.2012)

So, I’ve finally convinced myself that I need to start exercising here.  It’s only been like a month and a half.  I don’t really want to pay for a gym membership that I may or may not end up using, so my beloved eliptical machine is not an option:  Instead, I’ve decided that a combination of running/jogging/trying to run and pilates led by an instructor on video.  If you know me, you’re probably aware of the fact that I cannot run.  I’m not really sure if it’s supposed to be an innate ability, but I don’t think my issues with the act are normal.  I look ridiculous doing it, I tend to forget to breathe (this is an all the time thing though), and I get shin splints.  Another problem might be that I don’t know how to pace myself, if I’m going to run, I’m going to really run.  Sad story, I know.

In order to convince myself to do something, I often have to bribe myself to do it.  In this case, I decided I’d run to Parque Agua Branca (the one with the birds).  I had heard that there are venders there selling organic coffee and breads on Sunday mornings.  However, today was the “Festival of Summer”- aka there were tons of people there to see me attempt to run.  Whatever.

I bought a coffee and sat down somewhat away from the crowds.  I then noticed that there was a chicken seated at the next table over.  After that, a peacock casually strolled past.  Things like that remind you that you’re in South America, even in São Paulo (that is, if you forget that these birds are kept here by the Department of Agriculture).

Brazil exports all the good coffee??

I discovered Starbucks at Bourbon Shopping on my frozen yogurt trip the other day.  It looked very chill, a welcome refuge from the typical São Paulo hustle and bustle (and the various crowded Starbucks in New Orleans- not sure how many times I’ve gone from coffee shop to coffee shop looking for an open seat to do homework).  Currently, I’m sitting next to the one electrical outlet I could find... odd.  I guess I’m the only one who comes to a mall to do homework?  (Side note:  Bourbon Shopping confuses me.  There are four levels... I think... and multiple stairs and escalators.  It’s not just a square.  I can navigate King of Prussia, but I’m still wandering around the malls here aimlessly.  I guess it gives me something to do, as I don’t really want to buy anything- really , I do.  I’m just trying to fight the urge and being lost seems to help.) 

I quickly learned that I needed to learn the word for “skim milk,” as my cappuccino tastes like buttermilk (with a little coffee in it).  I can’t imagine how much fat/calories this entails.  This is my first time at a U.S. chain, and I’ve been here for a month!  I’m very proud of myself.  Still, I can’t help but think that the Starbucks workers are making fun of me.  However, I can’t tell what they’re saying unless I dedicate my full attention to their conversation, and I don’t feel like that would be a productive use of my time.  I may or may not be wearing a “Bama” shirt.  I doubt many people understand its significance, but I'd assume that they assume that it's a foreign thing.  (I can’t wait to get my PUC-SP shirt!  Except I’m not sure how many students actually wear them.  I think I’m going to feel it out.  I will be bringing one home though.)  Anyway, after I ordered, they just stared at me.  Apparently they wanted my name, but they didn’t attempt to ask for it in Portuguese.  Was I just supposed to know that?  I get a little angry when people switch to English, instead of letting me try to speak Portuguese.  I feel like I haven’t accomplished anything when the Starbucks barista says “Your name?”  No one can understand my name here.  No matter what.  I know there's a problem with the initial “H."  Maybe the “l” in the middle doesn't work either.  I began to spe ll it for her (in Portuguese), but she nodded me off.  So, my name is apparently “H allen.”

007


I voyaged here with the intention of getting some stuff done (since I don’t have class today), but I was deceived by the website.  There’s no wifi.  I could maybe pay for Internet, except I’d need a CPF.  The CPF (similar to a Brazilian social security number, but used ALL OF THE TIME) may be the single most frustrating thing in my life right now.  You need one for everything.  I can’t get one. 

I’ve also noticed that Starbucks used the Spanish upside down exclamation point that goes at the beginning of sentences (I don’t speak Spanish) in the Portuguese, as well as the Spanish, on their cups.  You’d think someone would have caught that. 

 

Ch-Ch-Changes

I feel like a lot happened today.  In reality, maybe it wasn’t that much, but the cultural differences and language barrier make everything that much more complicated.  Hence, I’m dedicating this post to the culture adjustments I’m making (read:  trying to make) in Brazil.  The title is also a reference to what appears to be Brazilians’ love of American 80s music.  I haven’t heard any Bowie yet, but I have heard Karma Chameleon, Africa, and Don’t Stop Believin’ several times.  Not 80s, but “Hollaback Girl” appears to be a popular choice as well.  (My favorite musical experience has to be the little kids singing “Yellow Submarine,” though.)

So, today was my first real day of school at PUC-SP.  It was scary.  I had heard that upperclassmen haze, but I didn’t expect to see kids covered in paint, chugging cachaça at 7:30 am.  For whatever reason, I had signed up for an upper-level economics course this morning, so I managed to avoid most of it.  I heard it got worse in the afternoon.  I’m planning to act like I know what I’m doing and avoid this for the rest of the week (it also helps that the freshmen are about 17, and I look quite a bit older than them). 

My class wasn’t bad; the professor basically just introduced the course (no one goes to class for at least the first week, so there were four guys there in their later 20s in professional-looking clothing- maybe I don’t belong in this course, but I have another week to decide). 

But, on to the everyday cultural differences I promised.  In my opinion, one of the biggest is the difference in dating/flirting/I’m not sure what you’d want to call it.  If I wear a skirt, shorts, or anything relatively form fitting, I get about five car horns while walking down the street, two guys making kissing noises at me, and the occasional dude who is even more forward (hanging out of cars, asking you to come with him, the persistent jogger who gave me his email address as a way to contact him).  In a club, guys just grab you.  And they don’t really like to let go.  It’s gotten to the point where this is no longer an ego boost.  I would just like it to stop.  But it’s 90 degrees (farenheit) this week; I’m not about to wear a big sweatshirt and sweatpants everywhere I go. 

Temperature brings me to my next point.  I don’t know metric.  This leads to a lot of conversions when my computer is available and to some mix-ups when it’s not.  For example, today at the mall, I spent about R$14 on fro-yo.  I looked at the R$5.50 for some amount which I don’t really remember (but assumed it was standard), and thought “Wow, this is cheap.”  Not so much.  (I should admit that my inability to estimate weights and measures probably contributed to this mistake.) 

I was really at the mall for about a half-hour at the most, but this was not my only issue while there.  I went with the purpose of finding frozen yogurt, checking out the Starbucks (for the future), and just wandering around a little.  While there, I remembered that I’ve already rendered one pair of sandals useless and that one half of my other pair is missing a heel.  I casually strolled into a shoe store to be confronted with the fact that I only know my shoe size in U.S. sizes.  Everything around me was labeled with a size somewhere in the 30s.  Unwilling to come across as the “stupid American” (which I feel like I do fairly often), I went right back out.  Or maybe I didn't want them to see my awkwardly sunburnt/tanned feet.  (I also bought some new suntan lotion- it's Nivea brand this time.)

002
 

After that adventure, I proceeded to discover Stroganoff-flavored ruffles, was, once again, mystified by the vast under-supply of (and I guess demand for) peanut butter, and was forced to face the reality that there is no Dr. Pepper available here :(.  Like I said, big day. 

Stroganuffles

A Chuva

Inspired by today's events (aka the fact that it started to pour as soon as I got off the bus, and despite, the fact that I had an umbrella, arriving home pretty much soaked), I've decided to compose a pictoral entry.  This is dedicated to January in Sá is gone. Maybe I shouldn't be complaining..)

003
One of my earliest impressions of São Paulo.  This is a shot of Avenida Paulista in the rain from my orienation hotel room.

001
For the anniversary of the founding of São Paulo, we made the long journey to Parque Ibirapuera, a huge green space in the city.  The weather forecast called for a perfect day, and then SURPRISE.  Rainstorm.  We huddled with approximately a million other people (some of whom were making out, PDA is a little more common?/acceptable? here) under one of the very few roofed structures. 

003
A picture I took in Luz when it looked like it would rain.  Not sure if it did- we went inside soon after.

 

And this is what I hope to see more of in the near future (including during Carnaval-fingers crossed!)

002